In several spots, the EV6 offers different routes along the Loire Valley, depending on whether you want to ride near the river or through the uplands; there are also loops that take you to various chateaux. After our experience on the Rive Droite yesterday, this morning we decided to try the Loire en Vélo par les côteaux, which goes steeply uphill from Saumur but then flattens out as you reach the plateau above the valley.
It was a tough way to start the day, but once we got up there, the views were lovely, and we were riding along country roads through vineyards. Absolutely gorgeous. The path dipped down to the valley floor to take us through Turquant and its strange troglodyte houses built right into the cliffs. Then another hard climb to the uplands before coming down to the valley floor for good at Montsoreau (which I have jokingly been calling Mon Snorro), where we found a perfect spot for second breakfast.
The rest of the ride was along the river, either through forest or along a road immediately adjacent to the Loire. Beautiful as it is, it would be even nicer if there were more benches and picnic tables along the route. We had to ride quite a ways before finding a little park with some shade where we could eat lunch. Alas, the few picnic tables were either occupied or in the sun, so we set down our picnic blanket under a tree and sat our tired butts onto the hard, hard ground. (I know, I know. Somewhere, someone is playing a tiny violin.)
After lunch, we embarked on the final 20ish kilometres to our destination of Savonnières. The day was getting very hot, though the wind didn't seem quite so dry today. Just short of our destination, at Villandry, we found a welcome roadside bar and had a refreshing drink under the patio umbrellas. But so eager were we to get to our Airbnb to have a shower and rest, that we didn't even bother to look at the lovely chateau in Villandry.
Seen one, seen 'em all?
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