#CycleTour2021, Day 2: Going downhill

 We awoke to a glorious sunny morning. And not a sound to be heard but singing birds, and the odd early SeaDoo zooming across the lake (don’t get me started). We had a copious breakfast, included with the hotel stay, and then we were packing up our panniers and preparing to go. The couple in the room next to ours turned out to be from Saint-Lambert, one town over from Longueuil, and described themselves as “cyclistes débutants.” They clearly weren’t the kind of people who would do the sort of tour we are doing, but it’s nice to see people who have never done much cycling before enjoying the sport. One of the many good things to have come out of the pandemic, I think. 

Like yesterday, the mere act of hopping on our bikes and starting to pedal lifted our moods even further. The air was fresh, our legs were fresh, and we were embarking on another day’s adventure. The first 15 km of today’s ride was still on the Vélopiste Jacques-Cartier Portneuf and just as delightful as yesterday. However, once we crossed the impressive bridge over the Jacques-Cartier River, the bike path was paved, so the going proved a little easier. Also a great deal busier. It seemed like most of Quebec City was out cycling on this beautiful Saturday morning! A busy bike path, but still exceedingly pleasant for all that. 

We stopped for our 2nd breakfast at 11:30 in Wendake and arranged to meet a friend for a picnic lunch at a park along the Rivière Saint-Charles. I must say, cycling in Quebec City is wonderful—lots of well-maintained bike paths, even along major roads. As we began our descent into the St. Lawrence Valley, we were also riding through some not very interesting commercial districts. But at least we were on a safe bike path, and going downhill makes everything better when you’re on a bike. 

We stopped briefly at an IGA to pick up lunch provisions and then headed down the St. Charles River bike path—surely one of the loveliest urban bike routes in North America. We met up with our friend, had a leisurely lunch and then continued along the path into the Old Port of Quebec and on to the Québec-Lévis ferry. Alas, we got there just as it was leaving, and this early in the season, it only runs every hour. So we had some time on our hands, but we decided to just rest and wait. I did lend my pump to a fellow cyclist who had a flat and had used his CO2 cartridge. 

The beautiful Rivière Saint-Charles bike path.

After the short crossing, we only had 8 or 9 km to go to our Airbnb in Saint-Romuald. After stopping for supper provisions at a SuperC (nothing better to be had, alas), and raiding a local bakery for a loaf of bread, we headed to our apartment, which is right on the St. Lawrence, opposite the Quebec City suburb of Sillery, with a view of its lovely Église Saint-Michel de Sillery, where I did one of my first ever Early Music gigs nearly 30 years ago! A lovely way to finish day 2 of this tour. 

I have never seen the St. Lawrence this low at Quebec City! Saint-Michel-de-Sillery in the distance.