Day 12: hump day in Strasbourg

Today officially marks the second half of our vacation. It’s all uphill from here (since we are actually heading up the Rhine valley from this point). We spent the day visiting the astonishingly beautiful city of Strasbourg. This is truly one of the loveliest cities of its size in the world and an example of what sage city planning can accomplish. It has been a beautiful city for centuries, I’m sure, but when the leadership decided, in 1994, to ultimately ban cars from the city centre and put in a system of trams (exceedingly beautiful trams, I might add), it changed the city in ways that they perhaps did not envisage.

We were wandering around by 10 am, and even on an early June morning, the number of tourists here was a little annoying. I can’t imagine what it must be like in July and August. But like every tourist town, there’s a reason the tourists come, and not having to dodge vehicle traffic to get your shot of the magnificent cathedral is a pretty big deal.

We spent the morning wandering round the historic district, gradually working our way out to the university and then to Parc de la Citadel, where we ate our sandwiches for lunch. Then we took the lovely tram back into town, getting off a stop early when we spotted a market near the opera house and buying provisions for our dinner.

Then it was back to the apartment for a rest and some research to book our lodgings for tomorrow night, which proved a little more difficult than expected, it being the weekend of Pentecost. But we managed to find a bed and breakfast and then Sonia went out to do some shopping while I had a nap.

We had dinner on the little balcony of our apartment, put on a load of laundry, and then went out for one last hurrah in Strasbourg at the Académie de la bière before heading home to prepare for more cycling tomorrow.

Day 11: Into the Rhine valley

As warm as it has been the past few days, today was maybe the coldest we’ve been on his whole trip. Day 2 was quite cool also, but our internal thermostats had not yet been set to summer mode, so we dressed for the weather and carried on. This morning, the brisk 13 degrees as we set of from Saverne had me putting on my jacket quite quickly and even regretting my full length tights at the very bottom of my panniers.

The market that had greeted us as we stepped off the train two days ago was now in the main square right outside our apartment, and greatly expanded. Sadly we were in want of nothing, so we just pushed our bikes past the merchants, through the throngs of shoppers, and down to the Canal de la Marne au Rhin and its bike path, which would take us right into Strasbourg.

If the weather was cool and overcast, at least we were heading more or less downhill and down wind, so we made quite good time. After just 45 minutes of pedalling, we had covered 13 km, and I noted that there was a highly rated bakery just off the trail, so we checked it out and were rewarded with some very nice pastries and a warm cup of coffee. Then it was back in the saddle for another hour or so until it was time for lunch. We picnicked rather quickly outside the town hall of a canal-side community, because the temperature had not really risen much and there was even the odd spit of rain. Sonia even decided at one point that it was worth it to dig her gloves out of the panniers.

A photograph cannot do justice to the beauty of a field of poppies in bloom

We eventually rolled into Strasbourg at about 2; unfortunately, the Airbnb would not be ready until 4, so we decided to see what we could see of the city on our way. This included the lovely Parc de l’Orangerie, which entertained us with blooming rose bushes, beak-clapping storks, and absurdly picturesque fountains. There was even a clean public toilet!

Roses at the Parc de l’Orangerie

After wandering around the park for an hour or so, we decided to make our way slowly to the apartment to check out the vicinity. Unfortunately, just then it started to drizzle in earnest, which made our wandering less pleasant and somewhat cooler than we had hoped. Eventually, our host showed up and let us into the flat, which is very nice and amazingly well situated right in the town centre, not 100 metres from the Hermès store, the Apple store, and even a grocery store.

After a rest and some supper, we emerged to explore this beautiful city for a few hours, since the weather had miraculously cleared up. Lots of photo ops in the gorgeous evening sunshine.

Strasbourg cathedral. Like the one in Cologne, it’s too big for a mere iPhone camera

Day 10: Saverne

We try to have at least one rest day per week on these trips. Not only is it good to give the legs (and bum!) a rest, it is also nice to stay in one spot for more than one day. Alas, due to the route we chose and our ambitions with this trip, today was the first real opportunity we had to stay two nights in one place. But as we head deeper into Alsace, we’ll be doing more of this.

Saverne is a pretty, vibrant little town at the foot of the Vosges. I can see how on a different kind of trip, we could have spend a number of days here and planned some really nice trekking. The Club Vosgiens is an association that marks and maintains the many hiking trails in these mountains, and they do a really fine job. We set out this morning wanting to do a short hike up into the hills around the town—something that would give some different muscles a workout but nothing that would be too tiring, this being a rest day after all.

A room with a view

La Grande Rue

How to choose?!

After stopping at a bakery to pick up our morning snack, we stopped in at the tourist information office, where we were advised to hike up to the Château du Haut-Barr and given a very clear map and directions. The hike started at the lock on the Canal de la Marne au Rhin in the centre of Saverne and wound its way up through the streets of the town (where the roses were coming into bloom)  to the edge of the forest. After that, we were in the shade and very comfortable.

A rose among thorns

As we walked up, I remarked how pleasant it was to be hiking in June and not have to worry about mosquitoes; it was like August in Canada. After a fairly easy hour, we found ourselves at the Château, which, on this weekday in early June, was not particularly overrun with tourists. We spent a very pleasant hour exploring the ruins, admiring the spectacular views of the Vosges, Rhine valley and Black Forest in the distance, and eating our pastries.

Then we headed back down into town via the Tour de télégraphe Chappe and the Source du château, stopping to buy an ice cream before heading back to the apartment, where we had a short rest and then went out to do a little more exploring of the town itself. Then we came back to make supper, do one last load of laundry, and undertake some research for our next destination: Strasbourg.

Day 9: a day of rest and reflection

We got up early this morning with the intention of heading up to the Verdun battlefield monuments before it got too hot. After a typical French breakfast of croissant, baguette, and jam (i.e., not much in he way of protein), we were on the road by 9 a.m. Google maps gave us two options to climb the 170 metres up to the monuments; we chose the longer but more gradual route. I’m glad we did, because even this route was a fairly strenuous 4 kilometre climb.

A few symbolic poppies in a barley field on our climb up to he Verdun monuments

A worthwhile effort, however. The Verdun monuments were one of the things I wanted to see on this trip, and they were, frankly, even more moving than I expected. We didn’t have the time to enter any of the buildings, but the whole area is impressive enough from the outside. It’s hard to even comprend what this region looked like 100 years ago. Both of us headed back down to Verdun in a reflective mood.

The Douaumont Ossuary

The destroyed village of Fleury-devant-Douaumont. The artillery “landscaping” is very evident. 

Google maps took us down some fairly rough gravel forestry roads, but in some respects, it was nice to be in the woods and away from the traffic. We made it safely into Verdun and headed to the train station to buy our tickets to Saverne. Then we headed into town to find some lunch, a public toilet (that rare French animal), and explore the town a bit. The rising heat prevented any of this from being very vigorous, but we enjoyed our afternoon in Verdun.

Verdun. Our last sight of the Meuse.

Then we put our bikes on the train and headed for parts east. The train voyage to Saverne required a transfer in Metz, but all went according to plan. Both trains arrived and left precisely on time. For this day, we might have been in Switzerland. Fortuitously, there was a lovely little market just outside the Saverne train station, so we were able to pick up provisions for dinner on our way to the Airbnb, which is a wonderful apartment overlooking Rohan Castle right in the middle of town. All in all, just 24 kilometres on the bike. Tomorrow is a “rest” day; we’re going to explore this lovely little town of Saverne and do some hiking in the Vosges.

Day 8: one of those days

Today started ominously and went downhill (and uphill) from there. We woke up after quite a good sleep and started our normal morning routine of breakfasting and looking at the day’s ride. But then at some point, we noticed that the water pressure in the kitchen was dropping rapidly, and after inquiring, we learned that the town had decided to cut off he water to the street (including the hotel) with no advance warning to complete some road repairs. Needless to say the hotel proprietors were upset, but this is France after all, and there’s not much to do except throw up your hands and say, C’est la France. It didn’t really inconvenience us all that much, but they were nice enough to give us a discount on the room.

Before leaving, I decided to make sure that Sonia’s tires were inflated enough, and in doing so, using a pump I was unfamiliar with, I managed to break off the tip off the valve, which meant I had to change the tube. A half an hour later, with the help of some Dutch guests, I had managed to get her bike back in working order (using our mini folding pump to inflate the tire!).

Next, we had to get some provisions for lunch and tonight’s dinner, which took us a total of 4 kilometres out of our way before we had even started. Then it was back to the Meuse à vélo route, which was mostly on roads today, some of them busier than we would have liked; but as I’ve mentioned before, we’re not too bothered by traffic anymore, even if we don’t particularly enjoy it.

The Meuse valley, with the 11h-century church Notre Dame de Mont-devant-Sassey in the distance

The route meandered through the farmland west of the Meuse, with various memorials and stellae cropping up more and more frequently as we neared Verdun. The various towns we passed through were all sleepy bordering on comatose, with not a café or bakery to be found. Indeed, even a roadside picnic table would have been appreciated. We eventually stopped for lunch in the little town of Cléry-le-petit. There wasn’t really anywhere to sit, but we found an old bridge just outside of town where we were able to sit in peace to eat... that is until it started raining. Not a downpour, but enough to make us put our jackets on.

Not particularly comfortable anyway, we decided to push onwards and upwards (and downwards). The showers let up after an hour or so, and these kilometres were on a fairly busy road, so there wasn’t much time for chatting or looking around. When we got to Forges-sur-Meuse, the route took us back to the river along a crushed gravel, somewhat overgrown bike path along the canal. A few kilometres before our destination of Charny-sur-Meuse, it turned into a lovely asphalt path like the one lower down on the river. A fitting conclusion to our Meuse adventure. Tomorrow, after visiting the battlefields, we head west for the second half of our adventure.

Back on the Meuse 

City hall of Charny-sur-Meuse

Day 7: A hard-won but worthwhile victory

Today was maybe the hardest day of cycling we’ve ever done in Europe (though it was still easier than several of our days in PEI last year). Heat and hills were the culprits.

We set out from Sedan quite early (OK, 8:30), knowing that the day was going to be quite warm. The first 10 kilometres or so were a breeze, since we were still on the lovely bike path along the Meuse. But all that ended shortly before Mouzon, where the Route Verte came to an end. Apparently other sections will be constructed this summer, but that was no help for us now. So we followed the posted signs for the Meuse à vélo route, which took us, somewhat contradictorily, away from the Meuse, up into the rolling hills of farmland above the Meuse valley.

A field of daisies

In some ways, it was quite nice to climb up and get a look out over the countryside, but with the ever increasing warmth and the at times quite steep hills, it seemed a bit like a bait-and-switch. Our legs are simply not used to this sort of effort, and with the cool spring we have had in Montreal, our inner thermostats are still in winter mode!

At any rate, after more than 3 hours, we found ourselves picnicking in the town of Pouilly-sur-Meuse, which, in some respects, is the genesis of this trip. Earlier this year, as I was doing some research for a translation about the treasure of Pouilly-sur-Meuse, I came across the Meuse à vélo website. We ended up not doing the whole route, but it was the start of the planning for this adventure.

Picnic in Pouilly-sur-Meuse

As we cycle up and down these hills, through these small villages, the many monuments reminded us of how greatly this region suffered during WW I. I can’t imagine what it must have been like to live through such a terrible time, and travelling in these areas always reminds me of how lucky I am to have been born in a country that promotes peace and during an era in which the horrors of the world wars are already three and four generations in the past. And I’m terrified that globally, we are starting to forget the lessons of the past...

We stop to read the history of an important WW I battle

By 2 pm, we had rolled into the little town of Stenay and our lodging for the evening, the Moulin à Cygne hotel, which has turned out to be yet another one of those unforgettable places you encounter during your travels. For a very reasonable price we have a three-room suite with a well-appointed kitchens and those little touches (like ironed bed linen) that make you feel like you’ve travelled 100 years back in time.

Just across the street is the Musèe de la bière, and it appears to be beer festival weekend in northern France, because the museum is hosting a little festival too. This one is much more modest though, and we actually enjoyed spending an hour or two there. I even met a fellow Albertan—the son of a Frenchman who had worked at the Cold Lake Air Force base in the 1960s. He moved back to France with his family as a teenager and doesn’t speak English anymore. But it was a neat reminder of how small the world really is...

A fine end to the day (spot the chickens!)

Day 6: Charleville to Sedan — another side of the Meuse

It’s incredible how the people we know and meet affect our perception of a place. Before yesterday, we already had one connection to Charleville-Mézieres—our friend Marie-Pierre, whose numerous talents include puppeteering, studied at the famous Institut International de la Marionnette here—but we will also never forget the incredibly warm welcome we received from our Airbnb host, Isabelle. Her little loft was wonderful, and her hospitality was heartwarming.

So we left the city with a big smile, after lingering over a late breakfast and delightful conversation in her cozy courtyard. The forecast was for a warm, sunny day, but we had planned for a short day today, knowing that afterward, we would have two solid days to get to Verdun.

South of Charleville, the Meuse flows through less confining geography but meanders just the same. The countryside here is bucolic in the extreme—lots of mixed farmland, cows, goats, forested bluffs, storks and hawks soaring overhead...

We arrived in Sedan at about 2:30, a ride of just 28 kilometres. Our Airbnb here is also lovely, and I write this on a little patio perched over a courtyard. After settling in, we set off to explore the town, famous for its castle, which is supposedly the largest in Europe. We were too late (and too warm) to tour the castle, but we were able to wander around outside the walls, and I made a game of trying to take pictures that didn’t have any cars in them. We walked quickly through the street blocked off for a beer festival, something that might have interested me at one time, but one look at the huge crowd of half-drunk Frenchmen emittting a truly prodigious cloud of cigarette smoke, with a loud, mediocre rock band at one end, made me realize how much more I prefer to enjoy my beer sitting quietly with friends, or simply writing a blogpost on a quaint patio...

Sedan

Le Château-Fort (a very small part of it)

Life could be worse

Day 5: low blood sugar and high life

Today was an easy day but a hard day too. And a day for learning. One of the things I like so much about this kind of vacation is that there’s so much time for reflection, and self-reflection. I’ve learned through these trips that if the motto isn’t “everything’s going to be alright,” then it should be. Because it’s true. 

And I’ve come to learn that you have to eat. 

Even though we don’t cycle fast, we still do an average of 50 kilometres per day. For me—1.88 m and 90 kg—not to mention a bike that weighs 14 kg and panniers totalling about 15 kg, that means I’m probably burning an extra 1500 calories per day just in cycling mileage, not including  the kilometres we spend walking around each town. Yes, the mid-morning pastries help, but the fact is, when you’re exercising, even as gently as we are, you don’t necessarily feel hungry, so it’s easy to under-eat. I suspect I’ve already lost a kilo on this trip, which is great, but you still have to make sure that you have enough glycogen in your system, or you start getting tired and grumpy. 

So today was a learning experience, but really, one could have less beautiful learning experiences. The Meuse was at its loveliest this morning, acting as a mirror for the blue sky, the breathtaking Ardennes, and various human-made structures. The weather was ideal. And the path was baby’s-bottom smooth. The signage could be better at time, but I quibble (probably due to low blood sugar). 

After our 67 kilometres yesterday, today’s 45 seemed quite easy, though our legs did complain a bit at the outset. We rolled in to Charleville-Mézieres at around 2 this afternoon and were greeted warmly by our Airbnb host with a freshly baked tarte à suc, a regional specialty. It’s so nice to have a comfortable space to relax in (the hotel in Revin last night was so-so). 

We rested, showered, did laundry, and then went out to explore the town, founded by Charles Gonzaga and the birthplace of Arthur Rimbaud. 

Day 4: Dinant to Revin

If today’s ride had been on yesterday’s trails, we’d be pretty tired right now. Thankfully, the path today was among the smoothest we’ve ever ridden, because due to a miscalculation on my part, we did 67 kilometres today—a bit more than we normally like to do.

We set off from Dinant about 10 am. Some singing drunkards outside our window at 5:30 this morning woke us up much earlier than we had hoped, but once they moved on, we managed to sleep in to 8:30. The weather this morning was cool and overcast with a slight headwind, but nothing we couldn’t deal with.

Just south of Dinant, the Meuse route took us onto the “highway” for the first time, but it was so well paved and had so few cars (and those that passed us gave us a wide berth), it was actually quite pleasant to be riding on smooth pavement for a change. In any case, it was only a short stint, and the route soon turned back to a bike path.

After 15 kilometres, we came across a small bakery that, judging by all bicycles in the courtyard, was clearly a favourite spot for cyclists, so we stopped and refuelled. After that, the route went gently up into the hills above the Meuse via a rail trail before coming back down into Givet—we were now in France! As is so often the case, even though there was no tangible border, it’s striking how different one country in Europe feels to another. Architecture, road construction, garden style... all of these contribute to a je ne sais quoi that gives each country its own feel.

One such thing was the state of the Meuse route. Once we got past Givet, the bike path turned into this wide, perfectly smooth path that was a joy to ride on. The signage was quite a bit smaller and less clear, but we soon figured out what we needed to be looking for.

We had lunch at a picnic table alongside the river and then another rest in Haybes before pushing on to Revin. We did get sprinkled on a few times, but nothing serious, and the weather cleared up throughout the afternoon. As I write this at 9 pm, the sky is blue and the forecast looks great for tomorrow. We had hoped to picnic again for supper, but all the grocery stores were either closed or closed early today, it being the feast of Ascension. So we picked up a burger at the friterie down the street and then toddled back to our hotel room. A long day, but all in all, a good one. 

The town hall of Haybes

Givet. Clearly a very old town. 

On s’amuse sur la Meuse (second edition)

Today was, in most respects, one of those days we cycle tourists live for: varying scenery, wonderful weather (mostly), good food, and good company.

After a slow start to the day, owing to indifferent sleep—we tend not to suffer overly from jet lag on these trips, but lingering effects in the first few are not unexpected—we hit the road just before 10 am, a cool morning but the sun shining brightly. We wandered through some farm roads (in better condition that 90 percent of Quebec roads!) and eventually hooked up with the Eurovelo 5, which took us into Namur. A good chunk of this was a beautifully paved rail trail with a pretty good grade down into the Meuse/Sambre valleys—coasting down kilometre after kilometre made a nice change from the up-and-down of the past few days.

Namur is lovely, with a very quaint historical district. We got off the bikes and walked around, enjoying the bustle of the restauranteurs putting out tables and chairs for the lunch crowd. We found a nice little bakery, where we had our traditional mid-morning pastry and coffee, then found a grocery store to pick up the few items we were missing for lunch.

The traditional morning pastry break

The route up the Meuse, south from Namur, is exceedingly beautiful; it reminded us somewhat of our last trip down the Moselle, minus the vineyards. The bike route is essentially the old towpath, so mostly away from the road, but the quality varies from newly paved asphalt to seemingly centuries-old cobblestones (thankfully not for long stretches at a time) and everything in between.

Beautiful scenery on the Meuse

We had a very nice little picnic lunch alongside the Meuse and were on our way again before long, but by then, we realized that the weather had begun to change. The last hour of our ride was punctuated with the odd shower, at times enough to make us put on our rain jackets, but no where near a drenching.

We rolled into Dinant just after 4 pm and found our lodgings, a wonderful little room overlooking the river. We quickly dropped off our things and went to explore—Dinant is as picturesque a town as any you’ll find in Europe. Then we headed to the grocery store to pick up things for dinner and back to the room and the communal kitchen to make a simple supper. A full day, but a wonderful day to start our run down this beautiful river.

Photo op beside Adolphe Sax

Beautiful. Dinant